Trollope’s Hawkesbury

We have travelled up the mighty Hawkesbury River from Cowan Creek a number of times now, mostly to the Colo River for a few days peace and quiet, but once even as far as Windsor. It never fails to bring joy. There is always some new revelation: a new light on the sandstone bluffs, a new historic aspect or new activity on the passing banks. The history is fascinating, if often savage. Kate Grenville’s “The Secret River” is essential reading as is Jocelyn and John Powell’s “Cruising the Hawkesbury”.

Running up Trollope Reach, not long after passing the magnificent log cabin originally built for Renee Rivkin, the waterway always brings to mind Anthony Trollope’s description:

“The lower part of the river – that between Wisemans Ferry and Broken Bay – is very much finer than the upper reaches. On the Rhine, on the Mississippi and on the Hawkesbury alike, there is created an idea that if the traveller would only leave the boat and wander inland he would be repaid by the revelation of marvellous beauties of nature…but on the Hawkesbury, the headlands are higher, the bluffs are bolder and the turns and manoeuvres of the course which the waters have made for themselves are grander.”

Having travelled the Rhine but as yet not the mighty Mississippi, I can only agree, although the Rhine has a very different beauty. There is one thing, however. It is difficult to get a glass of good wine along the Hawkesbury. Unless of course you take it with you on board…….


About johnofoz

An occasional correspondent, with particular interest in music.
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